Herno’s Laminar Parka Isn’t Just a Coat—It’s ‘Sartorial Engineering’

Ben Alsop

SHOP SIMILAR $1,175, herno.com


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If you think of Italy, in fashion terms, as the home of handmade suits, sprezzatura (remember that?) and artisans beavering away at $3,000 shoes, well…you’re not wrong. But you’ve not been getting the whole picture, either. Much of the success of Italian brands—and the bedrock of Italian fashion as a global force—has been in the power of its textile development and the industrialization of manufacturing without the sacrifice of that vital Italian sense of quality. It is for that reason alone that as well as fancy tailoring, Italy is also the spiritual home of elevated performance clothing.

a waterproof zipper keeps the elements out
A waterproof zipper keeps the elements out.

Ben Alsop

Which brings me to Laminar, a performance label that matches performance and elegance in one tasty package. Laminar is made in northern Italy through outerwear specialist Herno, which has over the past 70-plus years perfected technical clothing for a global customer base that needs efficient urban protection against wind, cold, and rain. Laminar, founded in 2012, is its fast-growing, even-more-high-tech offshoot, which has already established a keen following in Japan and the U.S., as well as its home market. (In Italy, men are masters at incorporating technical clothing into their wardrobes, regardless of whether they wear them over a suit, a sweater and jeans, or their gym gear. Flexibility is what makes Laminar a seven-day-a-week proposition.)

the removable liner means that this parka can be worn as two separate garments or one warm, wind and water stopping system
The removable liner means that this parka can be worn as two separate garments or one warm, wind- and water-stopping system.

Ben Alsop

Claudio Marenzi, who now runs the company founded in 1948 by his parents, calls the Laminar project “sartorial engineering,” which pretty much sums up this heavily researched line of parkas, field jackets, and raincoats. Using breathable fabrics like Gore-Tex Windstopper (and waterproof taping), the pieces function just as well at the top of a mountain as they do on the street. But a lot of the really canny stuff is barely visible until you get up close, like specially researched drainage channels to carry rainwater away and waterproof zippers to keep it out.

the lightweight shell can handle perilous mountaintop conditions—even if the furthest afield you'll be taking it is onto the sidewalk
The lightweight shell can handle perilous mountaintop conditions—even if the furthest afield you’ll be taking it is onto the sidewalk.

Ben Alsop

The three-in-one coat here can be worn together or as two separate garments, which means depending on where you live, you should be good from the first chills of fall to the end of spring. For that, and for all the reasons listed above, it’s well worth (ahem) the investment.

A version of this story appears in the Winter 2020 issue of Esquire Magazine

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Nick Sullivan is Creative Director at Equire, where he served as Fashion Director from 2004 until 2019.

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Source : Esquire